THE DEVIL’S GNATS & THE DEVIL’S STAIRCASE
Stats-Today was a short hiking day of only 9 miles from Kingshouse to Kinlochleven. We ascended 1146’ and descended 1911’. It was a rainy day and we were done hiking before 1 pm.
I awaken well before our appointed 8:15 breakfast time. Looking out the window it is raining fairly hard and is a bit windy. We have a slow breakfast, the best spread so far this trip! I have to be gaining weight with all of the eating and beer drinking we are doing, in spite of the large doses of daily exercise.
Finally at 9:15 we step out the door into a light rain wearing full rain gear. Immediately we are confronted by scores of runners, most if not all looking very soaked, yet full of Scottish cheeriness. They all say a greeting of appreciation as we step aside or move to one side of the trail to let them pass. We learn that they are doing a 42 mile run from Tyndrum (where we started yesterday morning) to Fort William where we will finish the West Highland Way tomorrow afternoon. Runners will be passing us all day until we stop in Kinlochleven . From Kinlochleven they will still have 14 more miles of rain, midges, trails flooded with water, and mud. That is one tough race!
We are climbing from the start. In less than a mile we are swarmed by midges, the Devil’s Gnats. They are tiny, much smaller than our gnats. They swarm you in large clouds; all you can see is a cloud of small light-colored dots. They land on you everywhere and then bite you painlessly. They seen like just an intolerable nuisance, but a few hours later each bite becomes a red spot on your skin. We were forewarned and have come prepared with fine mesh headnets, the mesh much smaller than mosquito netting. Also we are packing “ Smidge”, the local midge repellent spray.
Midges seem to like swarming during light rains and appear to fly up from the ground vegetation, The only relief is a brisk breeze or moving very fast. Soon we each have our own personal swarm enveloping our heads and entire bodies. They land on wet skin as well where they quickly drown. Your skin is then covered in black dots. While the midges are black, when they fly, their wings made them appear as light-colored dots.
Soon we at at the beginning of yet another devil, this one being the infamous Devil’s Staircase, a long series of steep and seemingly endless switchbacks up a treeless mountain. At the top of the Staircase you are rewarded with the highest point on the West Highland Way trail and expansive views across the Scottish Highlands.There are no views today unfortunately. Only fog and rain.
It is almost noon and we begin a long descent for the next 3-4 miles into Kinlochleven. The rain tapers off and the skies lighten a bit. We reach the village, still in full rain gear (rain jacket, rain pants, waterproof rain mitts and waterproof mini gaiters that are ankle high). Bill is in Gore-Tex trail running shoes and Scot and I in regular trail running shoes. Definitely wet feet for Scot and me!
It is too early to check in so we head to the bar…..no, not for a pint but today we opt for hot drinks instead, coffee and tea. We take a short exploration walk around the village and find a place that will make sandwiches along with several other items for our trail lunch tomorrow. For only 7£ each it is a great deal. All we do is pick up the lunches at 7:20 am.
Soon our rooms are ready for check in and we go to our rooms to hang our wet clothes, do laundry, and relax. Tomorrow is our last day of hiking on the West Highland Way. Then a day climbing Ben Nevis. The we are off to the Isle of Skye for 6 days of hiking!,
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